What do you do when a salt Cell says no flow?

What do you do when a salt Cell says no flow?

The most common reason for low or no flow is that the baskets are full of debris. By checking and emptying both the skimmer basket (by the pool) and the pump basket (inside the pump) this will free up the water flow, allowing the system to fully ‘prime’ and function at full capacity.

How do you reset a salt machine?

To reset, move the switch to ‘Off’ and then back to ‘Auto’. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds). When the instant salt level is stable (and the negative sign still present), slide switch to ‘Super Chlorinate’ and back to ‘Auto’. It takes about 30 seconds for the unit to settle back on the default reading.

Why is the Red low salt light on?

So, the red low salt light is on, but the green Cell light is also on and it appears to be producing chlorine, i.e. a fair amount of bubbles come out of the return lines when the cell light is on and no bubbles appear when the cell light is off.

When does the low salt light go blank in a pool?

“If the salinity is below 2600 ppm, the salt display will light the red LOW SALT indicator, and the CELL light will go blank, indicating there is not enough salt in the pool for chlorine to be produced.”

What to do if your salt cell is not working?

Below are a few tips on how to deal with salt cells that don’t work. 1. Replace or repair damaged units immediately when problems are identified. 2. Replace the entire unit every once in a while. More often than not, a well maintained and high quality system should offer decent service for up to 5 years.

When does the check salt and inspect light stay on?

Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else. The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when: The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating. Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size.

So, the red low salt light is on, but the green Cell light is also on and it appears to be producing chlorine, i.e. a fair amount of bubbles come out of the return lines when the cell light is on and no bubbles appear when the cell light is off.

How can I get a zero salt reading?

Power cell back up, if it continues to flash the cell is bad. Getting a Zero salt reading on automation – First check salt temp sensor by holding the MORE button down for 6sec and watch the cold water/power light if goes RED temp sensor is bad, if it’s good double check low voltage wire between the salt board and automation board.

“If the salinity is below 2600 ppm, the salt display will light the red LOW SALT indicator, and the CELL light will go blank, indicating there is not enough salt in the pool for chlorine to be produced.”

What to do if your salt level is wrong?

If you have 25-39VDC across the left and right hole, but no lights on cell that tells you the cell is bad. Cell Reading Wrong salt Leve l – Hold down the MORE button on cell for 6sec and watch the Cold Water/PWR light if it goes RED that tells you the temp sensor is bad and you need to swap out the flow switch/temp sensor (520736).

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